By Joёlle Bayaa-Uzuri
The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “clothing” as “garments in general.” While the word “clothing” is not inherently a gendered noun, we as a society have declared different types of clothing to be specific to one of two genders/sexes. Clothing such as skirts and dresses have traditionally been associated with women/feminine persons; meanwhile, loose clothing and suiting have been linked to men/masculine persons. Throughout the history of Western civilization, ingrained and rigid gender roles—coupled with sexism—have helped to maintain this status quo.
As time moved on, however, societal gender roles began to loosen and shift—a response, in part, to the increasing attention to and awareness of trans, non-binary, and gender-nonconforming persons. The male-female binary was challenged and, as with many things, art began to imitate this reality.
As trans and non-binary lives became more visible, industries, including fashion, began to tailor their brands—and more importantly their marketing—to be more “gender neutral.” Some brands, such as River Island and Zara, subtly promoted themselves as gender neutral. Others, like ASOS and John Lewis, boldly declared their stance by creating entire gender-neutral capsule collections or by completely restructuring the gender categories within their broader collections. But while all of this should signify steps in the right direction, how genuine are these changes really? Are these apparel brands truly capturing what it means to be “gender neutral?”
Upon first glance, these brands appear to be spearheading change by doing away with a binary system that is truly discriminatory towards gender-nonconforming people and, in turn, providing a safe and supportive space for trans and non-binary folks to shop. A deeper look, however, reveals that most of these brands are merely reinforcing gender norms.
The vital concept these brands are missing is the interconnection between gender neutrality and gender fluidity. Trans, non-binary, and gender-nonconforming people often embrace any and all gender expressions, opting to fluctuate between the masculine and feminine—or choosing to embody neither—based on their individual identities and truths, rather than on sexist gender norms. A true gender-neutral clothing line would showcase and promote apparel that is both masculine and feminine and that can be worn by anyone and everyone. True gender neutrality includes male/masculine-bodied persons wearing dresses and skirts, as well as women/feminine-bodied people sporting masculine garments. The vast majority of clothing companies, however, are only embracing the latter. ASOS is one example.
ASOS, a large fashion brand based in the UK, is one of the latest companies to release a gender–neutral clothing line. The collection is full of baggy, boxy T-shirts, loose hoodies, and neutral-based color schemes. Zara, another large fashion retailer with stores around the world, simply added an “ungendered” section to their website. This section features styles similar to ASOS—baggy shirts and loose trousers. Beyond these two examples, many other retailers promoting gender neutrality follow similar models.
In reality, these brands are not promoting gender neutrality; they are reinforcing traditional gender and heteronormative standards. By only promoting masculine fashion as “gender neutral,” these clothing brands are reinforcing masculinity as the default gender expression of choice. The femininity that simultaneously exists within gender neutrality is lost, as masculine clothing becomes the only acceptable choice for all genders. As with many large corporations, these companies are merely “riding a social wave,” cashing in on a market that has been previously ignored, but that is now gaining more visibility and attention. Most of these companies are not concerned with true social change (which would include hiring gender–nonconforming people to facilitate and lead these collections/fashion lines) or real gender equality. They are merely concerned with how to use and exploit current social trends, while only slightly rocking the status quo.
A few companies stand out as glimmers of hope within the fashion industry. John Lewis, a large childrenswear retailer, announced that it was doing away with its “boy’s” and “girl’s” sections—that all of the brand’s clothing could be worn by any child, regardless of gender. Even though John Lewis faced great backlash, the brand stood by its decision to create more choices and options for all customers.
Fashion companies that are true leaders in the gender-neutral clothing movement are those owned and operated by and for trans, non-binary, and gender-nonconforming people. These brands, including companies like The Phluid Project and Chromat, have aimed to celebrate and highlight all parts of gender neutrality and diversity within their clothing lines.
While the fashion industry may be a long way from embracing true gender neutrality, we must remember that we have the freedom to choose any and all clothing that best represents our true selves. We deserve to wear what makes us feel most comfortable, in whatever form or fashion that may take.
