By Dr. Laura McGuire
Welcome back to Traveling While Queer, your guide to the country’s most fabulous cities—the scoop on what to do, where to go, and what to see—all from an LGBTQ perspective. In this installment, we journey to my hometown—Chattanooga, Tennessee!
Why I Love Chattanooga
Growing up, I always felt a sense of pride in being from Tennessee. The rich history, culture, and lore, matched with the state’s rolling hills and mountains that transform with the seasons, always made me proud. My family has lived in North Carolina and Tennessee since the 18th century, so red clay runs deep in my bones. Most people associate the Volunteer State with Nashville or Memphis, leaving Chattanooga underappreciated and overlooked.
Chattanooga is a true gem of the Deep South. Though ever–growing, it remains a city that is walkable, safe, and deeply intertwined with the mountains around it. Each new expansion, from the streets to the surrounding infrastructure, is built with environmental inclusion in mind. This past spring, I had the chance to take my children to Tennessee to see where I was born and to further explore our family history. I was pleasantly surprised at how progressive and family-friendly ‘Nooga has become!
LGBTQ History
For all of my previous Traveling While Queer destinations, I’ve been fortunate enough to have many positive LGBTQ historical antidotes to share. Sadly, when it comes to Chattanooga, I do not. There is the South and there is the South—a place queer folks rightly fear. Chattanooga and its surrounding areas in Tennessee do not have the best history with LGBTQ inclusion.
In 2004, the commissioners of Rhea County, near Knoxville, voted unanimously to ban LGBTQ residents. Rhea County Commissioner J. C. Fugate was quoted as saying “If [homosexuals are] caught in Rhea County living together as such, that they be tried for crimes against nature.” After the county received national backlash, officials claimed the vote was “just a misunderstanding.” The scars left behind by that motion, however, are still very much felt today.
In 2015, a business owner in Washburn, Tennessee put up a “No Gays Allowed” sign in his hardware store. Instead of being forced out of business, his community supported him. He began selling hats and bumper stickers that said, “Choose God or Gays,” and quickly sold out of the merchandise.
Though these stories are deeply disturbing and disheartening, they remind those of us who live in more inclusive areas that, for many queer people in the United States, safety and acceptance is still a distant dream.
Today, however, Chattanooga prides itself on being a diverse and welcoming city, complete with a vibrant annual Pride celebration. The city’s ‘Nooga Diversity Center offers everything from a resource finder for medical and mental health services to LGBTQ youth meetups. Plus, the NorthShore district (where I stayed) is gorgeous and full of young, hip, queer and allied businesses.
Must-Sees
I definitely recommend staying in one of the NorthShore district homes and checking out the area’s many boutiques and restaurants. The district’s homes are something out of a postcard— historic architecture set against a breathtaking mountainous backdrop. Walk one of the area’s many bridges and take in the beauty of the river (you can swim and kayak through many parts!). Between the gorgeous natural scenery and Chattanooga’s small-town vibe, you’ll forget you’re in a city of nearly 200,000 residents.
Stop by the Tennessee Aquarium to see over 12,000 species in the attraction’s two distinct buildings: The Rivers and Seas Journeys. Surrounding the aquarium are beautiful tree–covered bridges and man-made rivers, which are free to swimmers all day! Before you leave, make sure to grab some mouthwatering BBQ at Puckett’s.
If you know anything about Chattanooga, then you know it’s famous for a 1941 song called “The Chattanooga Choo-Choo.” Well, there really was a famous train that left from this city—and today, you can even spend the night in a renovated train car!
End the night with a good old-fashioned drag show at Alan’s Gold Bar. I promise it’ll be a reminder that, no matter where we roam, queers always find a way to build community and create a home.
